A couple of products that may help you get started

Concerns and red flags

Although it is more common in other types of lizards, mouth rot is a concern. This usually occurs when the gecko bangs or smashes his snout on something. Geckos strike when they eat much like a snake and often miss and hit rocks and other things. Mouth rot is a pretty gross looking yellowish puss on the snout or mouth. If you catch this early you can treat it easily by cleaning the wound with peroxide and applying Vaseline to help it heal...it should clear up in a day or two.
Skin infections will appear as brown or black spots on the feet or underbelly of the gecko. Typically caused by soiled substrate, this is also easily dealt with. Just clean the tank throughly and swap the spots with Neosporin.
Bugs such as ticks and mites are rarely a problem and rarely fatal. However they can make Mr. Gecko really uncomfortable. Do not use insect strips!! They could poison your gecko. A pet store will have a reptile safe pyrethrin spray that works great.
Calcium deficiency is pretty common among gecko species. Their bodies require calcium to digest food. Indications include soft jaws and distorted limbs. This can be corrected (and prevented) by providing plenty of vitamins and supplements for your gecko and crickets.

I don’t want to dwell on this section too long as most of these problems are unlikely as long as your gecko is well cared for. Don’t let this scare you away from becoming a gecko owner.

Molting

Young geckos will molt every few months or so. Its a rather nasty process. A few days before he begins he will turn a light gray color...this is the old skin loosening. You will notice him scraping his head and upper body on rocks or branches in his tank. Once he gets the skin worked down to his mid section he will start eating it directly off his body. He will chomp and chew until he has pulled all of his skin off and swallowed it. This process usually takes about 90 min. If he seems to be having trouble or its taking hours try raising the humidity level in his tank by misting him with a squirt bottle. If that doesn’t work, place the gecko in a separate container lined with moist towels. The moisture will help him remove his skin. Also, keep an eye on his toes! Old skin can be left here and cause infections later. Any skin left behind can be moistened and removed with a q-tip.

Handling your Gecko

Leopard geckos are super curious creatures and they get along well with people. It’s likely that he will watch the things you do a lot, especially when you are doing things in his tank. Be careful when you take your gecko out of the tank. For one thing they are fast. You will find that if you touch his back or tail (where he can’t see you) he will want to run. Also, like many other geckos these little guys will lose their tail!!!. This is a defense mechanism and the lizard will be fine, but the tail that grows in will not be nearly as pretty as the original. If this happens isolate him from any other geckos and swab his tail with Neosporin and keep an eye out for any infection.

Choosing a Gecko

Finally! The fun part!! :) Leopard geckos are bred in a variety of different colors. Some are dark and look almost camouflage while others are very bright yellow or orange. This part is all about preference. Just pick out the one you like the most. A young gecko’s colors are a good indication of what they will look like for the rest of their lives, although colors may fade a little.
I recommend buying your gecko at a reptile show or specialty shop. These types of places generally offer a wider variety and healthier animals than pet stores. Reptile shows are usually held monthly in a city near you.
The sex of your lizard(s) shouldn’t really matter too much. They will not breed unless the proper conditions are provided. Also, it can be very difficult to determine their sex.

Food and Water

Crickets will make up the majority of your geckos diet. Any pet shop will have a variety of sizes. Do not feed your gecko anything longer than his head! The smaller the better. Crickets are very cheap cheap. 20 of them will feed your gecko for about 2 weeks. I do not recommend buying any more than 20 at a time because they will grow and begin to chirp. And that’s just annoying... Any container will work for crickets as long as they can breathe, but not escape. Crickets will eat just about anything. Just drop a piece of fruit or vegetable in thier container. Oranges work well. The more calcium, the better. Often times crickets will come from the pet shops hungry. You will need to "load" them. Just pick up some cricket quencher. This fills your crickets with good stuff for your lizard. Tropical fish food flakes work really well too. Let your crickets eat for a few hours before you give them to your gecko. Another good way to get nutrients to your gecko is to "dust" your crickets. This dust provides a calcium supplement and is very inexpensive. Simply sprinkle it on your crickets right before giving them to your gecko. Place only three or four crickets in your tank once a day. Once a gecko is an adult, they will eat every other day or so. Do not put too many crickets in your tank!!! This will stress the lizard out, and the CRICKETS will begin eating the GECKO!!! Geckos prefer to eat in the dark...about a half hour after your light goes off is good. I do not recommend feeding meal worms or pinky mice to a juvenile gecko. If you are going to do this I would wait until he is full grown. These types of meals should be rare. It is important to take good care of your gecko in the first year of his life. If he becomes comfortable enough with you he will likely begin eating right out of your hand!!

Watering is simple. Just a fresh dish of water every other day or so will do. Misting him once a day with a water bottle is another great way to provide water and humidity.

Lighting and Heat

Now that the inside of your tank is all set up, lets talk about the outside. A lid is a must. Although leopard geckos do not stick to glass, they are great climbers and could sneak out on you. The last thing to consider is lighting. A 60 to 75 watt incandescent bulb will work perfectly. Your local pet shop should be able to provide you with a bulb and fixture that will clip right to your tank or sit on top. Be Careful!! These bulbs get hot!!! Keep it away from children or other pets that may knock it over. This lighting set up will provide a nice basking spot and keep the temperature about 85 to 90 degrees inside the tank. Keep you light at the opposite end of the tank as your shelter. This helps create a temperature range inside the tank. This is where a timer will come in handy (especially if you're forgetful like me) :) They are inexpensive and will save you the trouble of remembering to turn the light off and on at the right times. Giving your gecko 12 hours of light per day will help him set his internal clock.

Hiding Places

Be sure to provide your gecko with a place to hide. These guys are very shy little creatures and they prefer a dark quiet place. Plants and rocks are a great way to achieve this (plants grow really well in terrariums). Just avoid anything spiked or sharp. Nocturnal geckos will spend most of their day staying hidden. If they don’t have this safe haven they can easily become stressed out. If this happens they will stop sleeping or eating, lose weight and possibly die. Also, make sure it is safe. Geckos will dig from time to time and are constantly climbing.

Substrate

The next thing is substrate (flooring). There are many options here. I used astro turf for a while, but it is difficult to clean and you have to remove everything from the tank to do it. Also, tiny pieces of this "grass" can be accidentally ingested, causing major problems. I also avoid wood chips or bark. Leopard geckos are very soft skinned and these may be too abrasive. You can also just use newspaper but it will need to be changed frequently. I have found that sand works great. About an inch deep is plenty. Droppings and debris can be removed using a small sifter...very low maintenance. You will just need to replace all of the sand about once a year or so. Do not use play sand! The sand in a lizards tank has to be digestible. You can pick up reptile sand at your local pet shop. It's very inexpensive, and they usually offer a variety of colors. Reptile sand contains calcium which is great for geckos.

Getting Started With Your Gecko

Housing
Leopard geckos are very inexpensive pets to keep, however, you will have a few start up costs. The first thing to consider is housing. If you are only interested in caring for one or two geckos, a ten gallon terrarium will be sufficient. Any more than two geckos will require you to increase the size of their home. I have two geckos right now and they each have their own 20 gallon space. Do not overcrowd your leopard gecko tank!! This can cause them to become sick or even die. If you have two geckos and notice them fighting, or one is not eating, separate them immediately!! Even if you have to return one or donate it to your local pet store, you should do it. If not he is going to die.

Owning a Leopard Gecko

Hi everyone! My name is Nate and I have been a leopard gecko owner for about five years now. These little guys do make great pets, but there are a few things you will need to know if you are considering purchasing one. Thought I would take the liberty of providing a little information.
Oh, first and foremost. Leopard geckos can have a life span of up to 25 years!!!! Be sure that you are willing to make this commitment. :)